Vytrus Biotech has harnessed the natural photo-defence system of skin’s microbiota for an innovative approach to sun care and to counteract photoaging.
In recent years, there has been a growing focus on the study of skin microbiota and its impact on the health of skin and hair. This trend has led to numerous cosmetic innovations, with companies like Vytrus Biotech at the forefront of research.
Vytrus Biotech has made significant breakthroughs in cosmetic science by investigating the skin microbiota field for more than a decade. Its first discovery was the ability to modulate bacterial communication, inhibit bacterial virulence and respectfully treat acne-prone skin and body odour caused by bacteria using Noni plant stem cells.
The company later uncovered the microbiota-skin-brain axis, which demonstrated how microorganisms can influence the regulation of skin hormones such as oxytocin and their impact on emotional well-being. This was achieved through the development of an active ingredient based on Cannabis stem cells which was recognised with the Best Ingredient Award at in-cosmetics Global 2020.
The biotech company has now been researching the connection between the skin microbiota and solar radiation in line with the rapid growth of the sun care category, which is predicted to reach US$25.3bn in value by 2033.1 This has led to the development a new plant biotechnology treatment that rejuvenates the skin microbiota, resulting in younger-looking skin.
THE POTENTIAL TO PROTECT SKIN FROM PHOTOAGING
The skin microbiota plays a key role in the maintenance of skin health and changes with age.2-4 Certain microorganisms, such as Staphylococcus epidermidis, Micrococcus luteus, Bifidobacterium spp., and Malassezia furfur, are crucial in protecting the skin against UV radiation. The metabolism of these microorganisms contributes to protecting the skin from sun exposure.
The skin microbiota and its state when faced with solar radiation, including the microbial metabolic behaviour, is known as the Photobiome Factor. This community of bacteria can interact with solar radiation and produce specific metabolites – the solar postbiotics (metabiotics) – which can be either beneficial or harmful to skin’s cells.
Microbial melanin and urolithins are newly discovered solar postbiotics that photo-protect the cutaneous microbiota and are part of the skin’s natural photo-defence system. When excessive sun exposure occurs, the population of protective microbes is reduced. The production of protective compounds decreases while the skin’s synthesis of harmful metabolites increases, leading to photo-induced skin damage and photoaging.
With this knowledge, Vytrus Biotech presents a new approach in cosmetic science – the sun-microbiota-skin axis. This biological axis suggests an innovative plant strategy to tackle skin photoaging: we can fight photoaging from excessive exposure to solar radiation by photo protecting the skin’s own microbiota with Photobiome.
Photobiome is a 100% natural active ingredient developed from the stem cells of pomegranate fruit (Punica granatum) and cotton (Gossypium herbaceum) sourced from the desert and semi-arid regions of the Middle East.
Through a new biotechnological platform of Phyto-Cell Fusions, Vytrus Biotech obtains a synergistic effect of preventing photo-ageing by protecting the skin microbiota with a novel mechanism of action based on a sustainable plant biotechnology (see figure 1).
This active ingredient modulates the metabolism of bacteria and stimulates them to produce their own natural photo-defence molecules, which are beneficial to skin’s cells. The active ingredient protects the microbiota and skin cells from photooxidative stress caused by harmful solar radiation, improving the signs of skin’s photo-ageing process.
BIOLOGICAL ACTIVITY IN VITRO
The bacterial population (CFU) of different microorganisms (S. epidermidis, M. luteus and B. pseudocatenolatum) was quantified and each cultured in its specific culture medium in petri plates (serial dilutions followed by CFU count), in different conditions:
- Non irradiated
- Irradiating at 6J (broad spectrum: UV, visible and IR) in the absence or presence of the active ingredient (at a 20% dosage, as the bacterial populations were very high, between 200 000 and 5 000 000 CFU).
The sun radiation reduced the bacterial populations, while the active could maintain higher rates of survival. S. epidermidis showed the greatest reduction in CFU count when subjected to solar radiation. In this case the ingredient increased bacterial survival seven times more than the irradiated untreated control. With M. luteus and B. pseudocatenolatum, more than the 100% of the CFU count was recovered compared to the irradiated untreated control.
In another assay, Vytrus Biotech analysed the effect of solar radiation on a co-culture of various microorganisms in plates. S. epidermidis, Staphylococcus capitis, Streptococcus mitis, Corynebacterium tuberculostearicum, Corynebacterium simulans, Cutibacterium acnes and Malassezia pachydermatis are the microorganisms that were cultured.
A total reduction of the microbiota was observed when irradiating 2.69J (UV) and applying a lotion without any SPF. Yet with the same irradiation plus a lotion with 3% Photobiome, the co-culture could maintain a 43% survival (see figure 2).
CLINICAL EVALUATION
An in vivo test was performed with 20 volunteers with signs of photoaging and a summer tan, who were between 49 and 67 years of age. Test protocol involved a double-blind and placebo-controlled assay with hemi-facial application of 1% dosage and two daily applications for 28 and 56 days. The test was carried out in Italy at the end of the summer season so sun exposure and damage on the volunteers’ skin were maximised.
The variation in the Individual Tipology Angle (ITA) was measured to study skin pigmentation during the treatment, both on the face and in the dark hyperpigmented area. The active increased the ITA value by 19%, modulating the melanin intensity and providing a lighter skin pigmentation along with an improvement in dark spots.
Skin firmness and elasticity were also assessed, where the active effectively reversed and repaired the damage to the viscoelastic properties of the skin by photoaging, showing a progressive restoring effect.
The wrinkle depth in the crow’s feet and in the nasolabial regions (eye contour and bar code areas) were also reduced after the application of the active ingredient at 28 and 56 days.
According to the results derived from this clinical assay, Vytrus Biotech concluded that thanks to Photobiome, the skin is efficiently protected and repaired from photoaging. The active preserves cell viability and balance, photo-protects both microbiota and skin’s cells from sun damage and, consequently, skin’s firmness and elasticity are improved along with an improvement in skin tone, texture and brightness, with a clear reduction of all types of premature wrinkles linked to photo-ageing (see figure 3).
CONCLUSION
Photobiome is a 100% natural active ingredient derived from the stem cells of pomegranate and extremophile cotton. It protects the skin’s microbial ecosystem and enhances the metabolism of microbes possessing antioxidant and photo-protective properties when exposed to sunlight. Based on a sustainable biotechnology, the active ingredient helps prevent photoaging by taking care of the skin microbiota.
Results include smoother, firmer, and more supple skin during and even after sun exposure. Available in South Africa from Savannah Fine Chemicals, Photobiome also reduces wrinkles, increases skin firmness and elasticity, and decreases hyperpigmentation after exposure to sunlight.
